Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Our Ayi


We hired an Ayi! (pronounced like the English letters “I” “E”, and literally means “aunt”) In reality, she is our part-time home caretaker. Now, you may think this sounds completely ridiculous since I don’t yet have a job, and you’d be right. We got caught up in the idea of an Ayi and, no joking, every single person we know has an Ayi, so when in Rome! Also, I’m still crossing my fingers on actually getting a job. ;)

Our Ayi is You Lan. (pronounced Yo Lan) She is adorable and came as a recommendation from Lauren’s former Ayi. (P.S. Lauren has become our local expert on everything. She’s pretty amazing on knowing the ins and outs of all things Shanghai. More to come later on all her tips.)  You Lan comes 3 times per week for 4 hours each day. She cleans our dishes; cleans our apartment; does our laundry; does our ironing; and runs any errands we need. i.e. checking the mail, waiting for the delivery, paying our bills, etc. It’s pretty amazing. And now I have more time to focus on the job search? 

You Lan speaks very limited English. I’m actually hoping this will be a good thing in forcing me to practice my Mandarin. However, the funniest part is that I was running out to grab a coffee so I practiced how to say, in Mandarin, do you want a coffee” “Ni yao kafei ma?”  She responded in PERFECT English “I do not like coffee. I like green tea.” I stared at her for a couple seconds before I picked my jaw up off the floor and said, “ok, I’ll get you some green tea!” It’s going to go great!

Also, now Matt & I feel more like local Chinese, since our clothes are now hung outside to dry! But on our balcony, so a little less revealing than on the tree branches. Matt hasn't met You Lan yet, but she had already reorganized his entire wardrobe. It's amazing.

So while You Lan has been cleaning and running errands for us, I've been posting wedding photos to Facebook, just like an respectable housewife...
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10100844053990846.2655396.1522295&type=1&l=382ee54a54

Our new clothes dryer


Monday, February 25, 2013

Frequently Asked Questions: Edition 1



Since we moved, I've received some really great questions from friends & family about our new life, here in Shanghai. Here is my take on just a few of those questions.

Q.     Do I feel safe walking around by myself?
A.    Absolutely.  The city of Shanghai is incredibly safe. Taxis are safe (as long as you don’t take a brown/maroon car. Nothing bad will happen to you other than a rip-off in fare). I don’t mind getting lost on the streets, but I also think that’s somewhat empowered by technology and I can always figure out a way to get back home. Now, one night I was walking home alone so I did call Matt to tell him where I was, direction I was headed and we stayed on the line until I was in a more populated area. I’d have done the same thing in any city. Also, always be safe with your purse and keep it close. Anything on the pick-pocket front could happen, but again, I’d say that can happen in any big city.

Q.   Do people stop & stare because of the blonde hair?
A.   Nope. I’m certainly not saying I blend in any way, shape or form, but no one has approached me at all. Sometimes I notice a few turning heads and points, but not in our neighborhood and mainly in more touristy areas. That being said, there was one day where it was snowing and everyone had their large parkas on, hoods up, heads down and you couldn’t see an inch of my blonde hair or face. It felt kinda nice to blend in just a little bit.

Q.   What’s with all the buttons on the toilet?
A.   Well, we haven’t figured them all out yet. There is some spray action, some bidet action, but the best part is the heated seat. It’s magical. Every single time. I know that sounds hard to believe but a pre-heated toilet seat makes having to get up in the middle of the night an actual pleasant experience. I want one when we get back to the states. Seriously.

Q.   Is China what you expected?
A.   Yes and no. I said this in the beginning, but everything is in Chinese. Everything is Chinese. We are in fact, in China. That being said we can find many local comforts. There is an abundance of places, especially near our apartment, that cater to expats; meaning, they serve sandwiches, coffee, cheese, and shops where the staff / owners speak good English, descriptions / prices are also listed in English. Everyone describes Shanghai as “very livable.” Now, I’m not completely sure what that means. It is fairly painless to navigate your way around the city via cheap taxis (~$4 or less for anywhere in the city) or the simple subway system. You could probably survive quite a while not learning any Mandarin at all. And you can find anything you want, especially if you’re willing to pay. I guess, all of these things combined make the city “livable.” However, this is China and things are different here.

Q.   What has surprised you the most?
A.   The expat community and local Chinese communities feel quite segregated.  Looking back, this makes sense, especially given the language difference, however, I have found so far that the expat community seems isolated from the realities of a local Chinese life. Or if there is integration, it’s only at the wealthiest of levels. Now, I’m certain there are exceptions to this rule. That’s just my first month’s impression. One of my goals here is to get more integrated into the local communities, however, that is proving to be significantly more difficult than I originally expected.

Q.   What do you call a Chinese restaurant in China?
A.   Turns out, you call them by the local region within China. For example, each region within China offers a unique selection based upon the foods developed in that particular area. For example, there are Shanghainese, Cantonese, Yunnan, Hunan, etc restaurants. So far my favorite has been the Yunnan food of Lost Heaven. So delicious!!!!! There are a ton of restaurants within Shanghai that serve each kind of traditional food.

Q.   How’s our dryer working?
A.   Our dryer is fixed! It only takes about 5 hours to do one load of laundry, which includes about 8 articles of clothing. I did learn during this process, that having a dryer in China is not normal. Everyone hangs their clothes out to dry instead of using a dryer. And that could mean hanging your unmentionables pretty much anywhere. :)  ... see pic below. 

Feel free to submit more Qs and I'll compile FAQs, edition 2!

A couple examples of the "livable"

The cheese selection at the civilized Carrefour that we found.

Just one example of an adorable, very English friendly, cafe around the corner

This is the atrium of a local shopping mall. I just thought it was so cool decorated for the Chinese New Year. (The malls have significant number of US / European brand stores)

Clean & painless subway system


 A couple examples of the "not so normal"

This "transport" system is common... and this is one of the smaller bicycle loads that I've seen around here.

This lovely old man brought his own portable boombox to McDonald's and blasted traditional Chinese music during his meal for all to hear and enjoy?

Local Clothes "Dryer"




Housewarming Party

On Saturday, we hosted our first party! 

We invited a grouping of so many wonderful people we've met since moving out to Shanghai. We've made friends through a variety of different venues: some we'd reconnected with since we moved here, some we met through friends of friends, through work and at other events or parties hosted by friends. Our friends were so generous in joining us on their Saturday night and we just had a wonderful time! Everyone we've met has been so kind in helping us connect with good people and have been generous in sharing their own connections and we feel very lucky to get the chance to know so many amazing people.

First, we started out with snacks & drinks at our place, where Matt tended bar. (and again our friends were so generous in donating to our wine collection!) Then we headed to a little actual bar spot around the corner called Senator Saloon. It was great! David, the manager, had set aside some tables for our group and the cocktails were delicious!

Unfortunately, Matt & I spent most of Sunday recovering...

No pics, unfortunately, but the prepping was some of the funniest part. We returned to Carrefour, but a different one, and this one was much less chaotic and a pleasant experience. While the offerings were more "diverse" than a typical US grocery store, they had a huge international section, which included a whole wall of American breakfast cereals, granola bars, etc.  I also made my first couple trips to the "Avocado Lady" I mentioned her in an earlier post and now I understand the draw for expats. She has all sorts of spices, nuts, cheeses that you can't find in other areas and for reasonable prices! I also learned during the party prep phase that you should plan to go to at least 3 stores to find everything you need for 1 recipe. I was trying to keep the menu simple but even still, there's just no one place that has it all! That's definitely something I'll need to get used to. 

Oh, also we can't figure out how to work our oven. So all dishes were stove or microwave prepared... even funnier! :) 

The menu:
- Bourbon Chicken (aka Food court Chinese food that includes no actual bourbon)
 (http://www.bigoven.com/recipe/201809/Bourbon-Street-Chicken)
- Broccoli Pasta
http://www.myrecipes.com/recipe/broccoli-grape-pasta-salad-50400000115388/)
- Avocado Feta Salsa
 (http://www.tastebook.com/recipes/354791-Avocado-Feta-Salsa)
- Cinnamon Sugar Pretzels
http://www.yourcupofcake.com/2011/02/white-chocolate-cinnamon-pretzels.html
- Cheese/Crackers
- Veggies

Wednesday, February 20, 2013

The Poetry Reading

Last night I met up with a friend of mine, Quan, from UVA back in the day. (She actually also went to Fuqua but we didn't overlap there.) She sent me a note early in the morning asking if I'd join her for a little poetry reading that evening after dinner. Now, I don't frequent poetry readings, but I'm always up for trying something new and the little official blurb she included mentioned a glass of wine. Of course, I'm in! Plus, I'm excited to meet up with Quan! Quan does warn me that she hasn't been to one of these before either, but she's looking to try more things in the art realm. I love it!

She swings by around 8pm and I hop in her cab and we are off to the reading. Quan is fluent in Mandarin so helps to navigate our way there. We pass our destination address number and hop out. 

Here is roughly my though process:
 - Oh, the address leads us down this dark alley? I've done this before, no big.
 - Oh, the building # leads us into what appears to be someone's home? [Quan and I exchange uncertain glances]. I thought we were headed to a bar? Remember, the wine?
 - Ok, we hear voices upstairs, there is something happening here...
 - Yes, why don't we walk into someone's home and up the stairs...
 - Oh, hey, really drunk, loud guy at the top of the stairs... Quan asks "are we at the poetry reading?" drunk guy responds, "come on in!!!" 
 - [We walk from the hallway through the door and into said poetry reading]
 - It looks like we are in someone's apartment?... There are definitely people here.... 20 or so?
 - [round the corner], oh, yes, we are definitely in someone's studio apartment as we are now standing in this man's bedroom.... WTF?
- Where is said promised wine? I'm going to need a glass pronto.

I'm not sure exactly what my expressions were on the outside, but I was dying laughing on the inside. We mingled & met a couple people (including the homeowner), Quan being far more outgoing than my shell-shocked self. Grabbed 2 glasses of wine, [which when we were asked to pay for them I about peed my pants, but still politely complied.] Then we found our seats on the floor for the poetry readings.

Honestly, they were interesting and it was incredibly interesting to see a certainly new, artsy side of Shanghai. The readings were parts of a series of short stories actually and I'm intrigued about the other pieces as well. Also, our fellow listeners were interesting. One guy mentioned how he once rode an overnight train from somewhere to Beijing seatless. That's right, that means he spent 10 hours on a train without a seat...... WHY?!?!?!?!?!

As interesting and comical as this had turned out to be, at "intermission" we politely said our goodbyes and ducked out to head to another bar where we could grab a drink and catch up. Quan suggested this place called El Coctel and it was fabulous! Will absolutely be returning here! As for another studio poetry reading, that's TBD.

Morning update... I didn't learn we were so in the know until Quan sent me the cover of "City Weekend", a popular entertainment magazine in Shanghai. HOLY COW!!!! This is the organizer from last night. And I know for sure because he was wearing the EXACT same outfit. 

Oh I love Shanghai adventures!


The alley (No it's not my camera, this is actually how dark it was)


The "poetry reading" / studio apartment



Flying Solo

Well, we knew it was too good to last. Why would husband and wife want to see each other every day? That's just ridiculous!

Matt found out on Monday that he will be staffed on a project for 8 weeks in Beijing. As of this morning, he hopped on a plane to Beijing. Great news because he's excited about the project! Bad news he will be gone 3-5 nights per week... shoot! Back to the consulting wife routine.

Anyways, that means I now have to figure out what to do to fill up my days AND my nights. I'm open to suggestions! :) 

On that note, a little job update for you: I've applied to quite a few things in the range of marketing as well as I'm incredibly interested in MBA Admissions Consulting, i.e. helping Chinese students who are qualified and interested in attending an American MBA program. Being that Fuqua was 40% international students, I feel my experience was enriched by the various experiences and background that everyone brought to the table and I would love to be able to give back. Plus, this would be a great way to be able to engage more with the local community. 

I've had a couple good leads in both fields. Coca Cola called me back immediately (which would be great!), but I don't speak Mandarin, which is a problem for many companies. I had an interview with a hospitality group a couple weeks ago. It's role that I'm incredibly excited about, but don't want to say a name and jinx it. :) There is also the potential J&J might still have something and I'd LOVE to continue to help, especially if they have a project type role. I'm open at this point! :)

Otherwise, I found a great little Spin studio, which I really like. I'm testing out a couple language schools (problem is I don't want to commit to a time slot if I do end up getting a job.) I'm continuing my language lessons online, but once I try to test it out in public it goes downhill rather quickly... Of course, there's still so many more things to explore! Basically, that's how I'm filling my days for now. (oh and the blog writing, so I hope people are still reading! hehe)

Sorry no good pics for this post, just a life update. :)

Tuesday, February 19, 2013

"Antiquing"


Spent Friday afternoon at the Dongtai Rd “Antique” Market. The reason I use the “_” is because all reviews online lead you to believe nothing here is actually a genuine antique. Fine by me! as long as the price is right. This three alley area was FILLED with all sorts of little goodies. Many things I didn’t want or need, many things I had no idea even existed, but also so many fun trinkets to take home!

I was shopping for vases and found two gems that I really fell in love with as soon as I saw them. I walked into one of the little stalls and of course as soon as you lock your eye on something some adorable old man or lady is up on you, calculator in hand, tallying the price. HERE is where you bargain. For my two vases she started at 1200 RMB; I countered with 200RMB; we netted out at 380 RMB (~$61). Of course this was after quite a few calculator iterations in between (we do NOT speak the same language / our only common language is numbers); me threatening to walk out; the tiny, but SOLID, little woman shop owner blocking my path; some laughs & giggles; me providing my “FINAL offer”; her responding with “you must be Chinese” (ego-boosting will you get you everywhere with me little lady) and then 2 hugs. All in all a successful experience and purchase! Pics below.

Matt also managed to scrounge up three crosses. Her favorite being one made of “Ming dynasty coins” (we are positive they aren’t from the Ming dynasty and are pretty sure they aren't even coins). He also didn’t love the “cross” shape so he did some sewing to get it just the way he wanted. I sure hope it wasn’t an actual antique!!!!

Our friend Helayna, from J&J, also joined us. She didn’t pick anything up, but turns out she lives just 2 blocks away! I think we will all be back here. Maybe for some Mao statues? ;)

Dongtai Rd Antique Market - just a sampling. 

 Mao statues galore. You could also buy Mao's "little red book" in every language possible. 
 


 Close-up of my vases. (they look better in person. the black is really gold. REAL gold. ;) )

In our front entryway. I'm still thinking something a bit taller should go here, but this works for now!

Matt re-crafting his "antique" cross

Monday, February 18, 2013

Cheesy Romance


By “cheesy”, I literally mean, filled with “cheese”.  Matt knows the key to my heart is cheese so obviously incorporated this into our Valentine’s Day celebration.

Valentine’s Day is definitely celebrated in Shanghai, but I’m not clear if it’s just for the Expat population or if the locals celebrate as well. However, the red undies (see CNY post) sale I think seamlessly translates to sales for a second holiday. Smart! Also, all the fancy Expat restaurants upped their prices for “special Valentine’s Day meals,” but we are familiar with that trick so we went for a more low-key meal.

We celebrated with couples massage. We went for the “Top to Toes” which is different than any massage we’ve ever had before, but it was basically two masseuses at once giving a head / shoulder / neck massage on the “top” and the leg / foot massage on the “toes”  Different, but fun!

Matt also surprised me with cards, flowers & cupcakes! Valentine’s Day is also our “first date anniversary” where our first date was to see “Valentine’s Day”, the movie, on Valentine’s Day. Now, that’s definitely cheesy in the figurative way as well. :)

The highlight was the Mexican fiesta dinner! We went to Cantina Agave near our house. Nachos were delicious, could’ve used more cheese, as were the enchiladas and Matt’s fish tacos. The margaritas were so-so, but overall, I’d definitely go back.

Happy (belated) Valentine’s Day to everyone!






Wednesday, February 13, 2013

Qibao Ancient Town

GRR... I can't rotate my photos anymore. So I'm apologizing in advance.

Anyways, I think the best way to explore is without any expectations...

Today I signed Matt & I up for an early morning outing with a "Meet Up" ( ) Photography group. Now, by no means am I a good photographer, but they were headed to an area I had never heard of and since it was a photography group, I figured there had to be something to see. Plus it would be a great way to meet some new people.

We headed to Qibao Ancient City. We had no idea what that meant. 

I did a little search on the subway during our 30min ride there and here is what I learned:
- Only ancient town with a history spanning over one thousand years in part of greater Shanghai. An original "water town"
- Qibao is the Chinese for 'seven treasures' A couple theories on this name, but the local favorite is a folk tale about 7 treasures that found their way to the town / temple: 1) iron Buddha made in Ming Dynasty, 2) a bronze bell also dating from the Ming Dynasty but said to have mysteriously appeared from nowhere, 3) Gold Script Lotus Sutra written by an imperial concubine of the 10th century, 4) a one-thousand-year-old Chinese catalpa tree, 5) a jade axe, 6) a gold cockerel and 7) a pair of jade chopsticks. Of the seven treasures, only the first 4 are proven and only 2 exist today.
- Cricket fighting: popular folk activity of breeding and fighting crickets. yes, crickets. they have shows in May & Oct, but unfortunately we missed that.
- It will be crowded. What isn't in China?

Anyways, we arrived with obviously limited expectations and this made for a great morning spent wandering through the small town. We arrived before shops opened but then by the time we left it was a mob scene. Part of the experience was just the transformation. It's a bit touristy now, but still I'd recommend the morning trip.

A little unofficial dance performance at the entrance

 Early Morning







Shops
  


Street Food. Crazy.








 Back alleys + Matt's Shadow Plays (local to the area. obviously)
 



Quaint Morning turns into Crazy Afternoon


Matt got in to the Street Games


Qibao Temple






 

Matt's Hair. He's too cool to read my blog, so I figured I should share. :)

Oh, & it's fireworks galore again tonight! I think the city of Shanghai might be exploding. It's INSANE!